Bodies Are Three Dimensional
From Eternal Voyageur, illumination on body shape confusion: the 3rd Dimension, aka where Trinny and Susannah went wrong. Basically, her point is that all these silhouette systems, including the one I use, only take into account the forward view, therefore they are limited in usefulness.
In The Triumph of Individual Style, the point is made that it is possible to be one shape from the front and another from the back, along with advice for dressing accordingly. But I can think of instances where the side view is a different shape as well. (MyShape’s system accounts for this.)
Honestly, I have no idea whether this “side issue” (ha ha) is a concern for me or not. Every time I look at myself in profile, I suck in my stomach and pull myself up straight. Have you struggled to find your body shape? Lots of people do. Here’s my favorite suggestion:
Instead of trying to pick your figure out of a finite number of shapes, can you choose a silhouette of clothing which is easy for you to wear, given both your personality and your figure?
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Off-site Fashion Lab: Dark vs Light Jeans
In case you haven’t seen it, Karen of a certain age’s dubious experiment: light denim/dark denim.
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Reader Question: What Tops Flatter the “Apple” Shape?
In case you missed it back here, Vildy asks:
A woman who has slender legs and small bottom but who carries all her weight in the front and has large bosoms plus a very large abdomen so, yes, it looks like the apple shape - and the bosom doesn’t protrude much beyond the upper stomach , what on earth is she to do about a top?
BTW, Vildy is pictured here on the blog, so we know she’s not asking for herself. Still, it’s a great question and we are so blessed that Imogen Lamport got wind of it and answered it for us!
Imogen’s answer:
You want to create the illusion of a waist, so empire tops (that encircle just under your bust, which is your slimmest point up top) are good, but make sure it’s not too gathered under the empire line otherwise you’ll look pregnant, keep is smooth and simple. Make sure any t-shirts are ruched down the side - I often do this myself to tops - buy one that’s way too long, then run some stitches up the side seams to gather them, go over the top to hold in place, and you’ve created your own ruched top.
Look for trousers that have a straight leg or even a wide leg, or flare, otherwise you’ll look like a lollipop.
A jacket that’s left open, but has some waist shaping (not boxy or square) is good. Wear a lighter coloured jacket over a darker coloured top and your tummy will disappear.
Make sure all skirts and trousers are pleat-free - flat fronts, and side zips can really work for you.
If you like to wear heels, make them a wedge - stilettos and kitten heels will just look too dainty on your frame.
Keep necklines lower to break up your bust. V-necks are great, as are cross-over tops (though avoid wrap dresses as they won’t suit at all).
Large pendants are great to draw attention up to the face and away from your boobs.
More to come - hopefully a fashion lab! - on the DIY ruched t-shirts, about which Imogen says:
I use my ‘home ruching’ technique for all tops that are too long (plus I love the spare tyre disguise effect it has), on not just the body of the garment, but also on the sleeves of any knit that the arms are too long.
It also adds a little detail that creates some visual interest to what otherwise might be a plain and boring top.
The trick with the ruching is to do a few stitches, then go over a couple of stitches as if you were going to tie a knot off, so that the ruching doesn’t slide round. Hope this makes sense.
Plus anyone can do it, you don’t need a sewing machine, just a needle and thread.
and
I also use my ruching technique for long-sleeved t-shirts that are too long in the arms, a few back stiches up the sleeve at the cuff mean you don’t need to take up the sleeve.I tend to stop the ruching under the bust area (so about a hands length down from under the arms).
Now. Is anybody planning on employing this technique? Say, this week? If so, please send in a before and after picture. We’d all love to see your project!
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Fashion Lab: Boxy Tops
Some time ago we were discussing the uniform typical of some of our moms:
elastic waist pants + boxy top + “earth shoes”
Hoping to address this topic delicately and helpfully, without being unnecessarily hurtful or judgmental, I would like to once again quote the illustrious (although I really should look that word up first) Imogen Lamport, from her article The Long and Short of It, which explains how to work with vertical body proportions (aka length-balancing):
Baggy or boxy clothes will make you look bigger (they do that to everyone) …
The proof (I used pictures of a plus-sized model because it’s just more illustrative):
Comments?
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Distinguishing Between the Figure-Eight and the Hourglass
Thank you, Vildy, for sending in the quote by Imogen Lamport, further clarifying this topic. Updates in italics.
In describing silhouettes, I like to use the following definitions:
- Type A (or triangle): shoulders < hips.
- Type I (or rectangle): shoulders = hips, waist less defined.
- Type O (or oval): sloped shoulders = hips, waist filled in.
- Type V (or wedge): shoulders > than hips.
- Type X (or hour-glass): straight shoulders = hips, waist defined.
- Type 8 (or figure-eight): sloped shoulders = hips; waist defined.
Those last two, though, seem to get people. In reality, they get me too.
Back in the early 80s, when I met my hero, I was positive my shoulders were sloped. He insisted they were straight. Twenty-five years later I am finally convinced that the real reason my bra straps fall down is because my shoulders are narrow (update: after a professional bra fitting, I now know that the reason my straps fall off is because I wear a demi style bra with widely spaced straps); but I’m equally convinced the type 8 silhouette works better for me. Why?
Here’s my theory: because I tend to more roundness on the lower half, the pegged skirts of the 8 subtract a little and draw a straighter line, creating greater harmony with my smaller, straighter top.
Remember, silhouette is different from measurements. Both a Susannah and a Trinny could have shoulders equal in width to the hips and a defined waist. A type 8 has fuller thighs, while a type X has a fuller bust.
So, in my theory, the type X would wear the fuller bottoms of the hourglass silhouette for everyday, while the type 8 would favor narrower hemlines.
Then there’s special occasion clothes. In my idiom, sometimes it’s fun to dress up as an hourglass, especially if the occasion calls for formal. Conversely, I think the slinky column look can be quite dramatic on the hourglass girl with the personality to carry it off. But please be modest!
“Now the difference between an 8 and an X is whether or not you have the shelf hip (you’ve got that shelf that your baby sits so easily on), where your widest point is the top part of your bottom (not your lower hip area), so you’re an 8. If your hip slides away and the widest point when you look in the mirror is the top of your thighs, then you’re an X or Hourglass shape. The difference in dressing these two shapes lies below the waist - they both can belt and tuck, but the 8 needs to wear straight skirts and trousers, whilst the X is most flattered by A lines and bootlegs.
You may have the high hip of the 8 body, but the narrow shoulders of the A body - if so, draw attention up to the face with pattern and detail above the waist, and keep your bottom half dressed like the 8 shape, clean, smooth and straight lines with no fuss or flounce.”
Imogen Lamport
(Read the entire article, which the author has kindly made available to us at her website.)
Now, honestly, I never thought anything about that “shelf”, although I certainly have it. Anybody?
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Color-blocking for an A
In Staging Your Comeback: A Complete Beauty Revival for Women Over 45
Consider, for example, the fact that the Type A figure is the most common figure type. Consider also the ubiquity of the black top worn with khakis. Precisely the “don’t” illustrated in the book. With that lovely contrast line right around the hips.
This suit would be a do for anyone wishing to minimize hips or tummy and maximize the upper body, where, incidentally, the face is generally located. 
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Pulled Together with Minimal Layers
Jenna asks:
Here’s something I’ve always wondered that may be more appropriate to discuss closer to summer…How do you pull off a pulled together look with minimal layers? I love the look of casual jackets, cardis, etc, but they aren’t really practical for me (at least every day).
My favorite super-hot but pulled-together look, if not to wear, certainly to see on others, is what’s being called these days ‘The Frock’. In other words, a dress. Simply throw a cardigan in your purse (or diaper bag!) and you’ll be set when you get to your air-conditioned location.
Lately I’ve also been thinking about dress shapes, and how they fit with the silhouettes. For example, for me, the type 8 figure, I prefer the fitted sheath, while the fuller skirt is darling on the type X or hourglass. Type A’s, of course, are natural in A-lines. Do V-type figures tend to go for wrap styles?
What’s your favorite summer dress silhouette?
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Making Peace With Your Body Image
Does God speak to you through your car radio? Strange question, but it’s amazing how often some random program can get me thinking. Like the program I heard on Moody radio (listen here), about the book Making Peace With Your Thighs: Get Off the Scales and Get On with Your Life
A couple of thoughts:
- Dressing your body as a shape, rather than a collection of parts, is a practical way of thinking holistically about your body.
- Men aren’t attracted to stick women, but rather by confidence.
- The biggest “mood disrupter” among women? Gaining weight!
I will add to that last one, though, for me, the biggest mood disrupter, or the thing that most often puts me in a bad mood, is being left out. How about you?
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Just Linking: Leap Day 2008
Weekend reading:
- The Carnival of Modesty at MIntheGap
- Healthy beauty tips at eternal voyageur
- New commenter kpriss blogs at StyleFrizz
- The Ducklings Respond to the news of the coming twins, at The Duchy of Burgundy Carrots.
- Stylish new blog: The Style Observer
More weekend reading:
- new to the blogroll: My Wardrobe Today
- Fabulously Broke in the City’s massive wardrobe cleanout blog project
- new fashion magazine for teens without all the sexualized content. Thanks Meredith!
On the topic of silhouette, Chantelle sends in this comment:
The Body Shape Bible over complicates for the sake of offering something different i feel. As a stylist I have always believed that there are simply 5 female body forms, the most common being the rectangle. In fact I have created a website which profiles your body shape and provides you specific style advice to suit… it’s an automated personal stylist service and simplifies the entire ‘what body shape am i question’.
I tend to agree about the 5 basic body shapes, although I do still prefer to distinguish between the hourglass and figure eight. But I never would have guessed the rectangle as the most common! Perhaps that explains my persistent attempts over the years to stuff my rounded shape into that linear silhouette. Am I the only one who has always subconsciously considered the pencil the ideal female shape?
Have a lovely weekend!
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Winter Tops for Smart Casual
Christie’s question concerning smart casual winter tops, which came in response to my post on the six levels of casual:
I also need better ideas for smart casual winter tops. I have a semi-wrap merino wool sweater which I like, but it seems to have shrunk in length.
I like to be warm, so I look for non-bulky wool sweaters. But my first layer under sweaters usually is just a tee, so that’s kind of boring.
My off-the-cuff answer:
I was just thinking that I could get a couple of slim turtlenecks and just use them for the boring t-shirt part, topped by a snappy jacket in velvet or suede or wool. I have also been using drapy silk blouses under my v-neck sweaters and liking that.
You see, typically I think of assembling an outfit, or a uniform template, in terms of
The Base (pant, skirt or dress) + The Top + The Layer
Brenda Kinsel suggests considering each zone as a room in a house. The larger the room, the more furniture (line breaks, detailing, embellishments, bells and whistles) you can put in there.
Based on the fact that shorter hip-length fitted jackets, the more pockets and detailing the better, are the hands-down best length/shape for me, I’m toying with this variation on the “formula”:
The Base + The Top Layer + The Connector
The top layer being the jacket, sweater, sweatshirt, etc and the connector being the top underneath which makes it all work together. Which really makes perfect sense, as the character of an outfit is created by the jacket … which I am now in the market for more than ever, for two reasons: one, I have laundry snafu’d all my favorites right out the door and two, Fall/Winter clearance. 
So I don’t know if I helped you, Christie, but you certainly helped me!
What say the rest of you lovely people? Other than that I over-analyze things. Isn’t that the point?
