When Duchesse mentioned cashmere sweaters + wool trousers as her winter go-to formula (a formula I love!), the concept lodged in my mind, in the vicinity of a collection of thoughts about architects, engineers, and other technical professionals. Professions Mella DP describes as follows:
That often means having to demonstrate credibility in the executive conference room and on the plant floor on the same day. Dressing in a way that works for both situations is tricky. It’s easier for the guys – most men can wear chinos and a polo shirt and and sturdy shoes and look decent and functional (if a little dull). Most women in a similar outfit would look like an Applebees hostess.
But most women dressed in a cashmere sweater and wool trousers would look conventional and context-appropriate, Mella DP’s words, my opinion. (Hey, I realize not everyone can wear wool. I figure if you’re reading this, you’re smart enough to figure out a wool alternative that works for you. If that’s something you’d like to discuss, we certainly can.) Perhaps it goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway, any ensemble worn in a business context should be decipherable by both men and women. Much of what is popular for women is simply not understood by the men they work with.
Since we haven’t had any illustrations around here for a long time:
(Ugh! Now I remember why we haven’t had illustrations for so long! This took me all afternoon!)
I don’t have a need for work slacks, but I would like some slacks for church. Any tips on fit? I have never worn them. I’m especially thrown by the noticeable lack of back pockets, and I just don’t know what is flattering. I see so many women wearing slacks that fit poorly…Don’t know how to not make that mistake. Right now, if I don’t wear a skirt to church, I wear dark wash jeans, but I’d like to expand my options.
While I don’t have a hugely better idea, cashmere + wool + heels strikes me as too dressy for the plant floor. When I worked for an engineering firm, the female engineers were more likely to wear slacks or chinos, a cotton button-down shirt, and a cotton pullover or cardigan sweater, with low heeled loafers. The look was tidy and pulled-together for clients (especially if a generally coordinating blazer was kept on hand) but not too snooty for climbing through mining facilities. (We once had an architect wear his cashmere jacket and Italian shoes on a mine visit. It took a lot of work to convince the client that we weren’t feckless city slickers.)
Oh, look, fame! 😉 This is exactly what I’d wear for a normal day in the office this time of year, and what Wende describes is the sort of thing I’d wear to a light-to-mid industrial situation (once steel-toed shoes are required, all sartorial bets are off – though, again, the guys have better options in that case). The situation with the architect she describes is almost iconic.
This point:
any ensemble worn in a business context should be decipherable by both men and women
is incredibly important and well stated, and seems almost always to be overlooked in discussions of this subject.
Also, what Stephanie said about fit – it’s clear a lot of people don’t get it, because most of the women I see in “dress” pants (mostly poorly constructed synthetic disasters) look really dreadful. When I try on trousers, I check specifically to make sure I don’t look like what I see in the cafeteria every day.
Why thank you! Um- whoever said men could ‘decipher’? (LOL).
I’ve worked in every sector, public and private, as a consultant. For a first meeting I wear either a jacket or twinset (not classic,but classic would be OK) with pants or a skirt. Once I’m around the place, I wear the ‘uniform’. Will wear Hermes scarf or real jewelry with ‘uniform’ for polish and interest .( 95% of the men would not be able to identify the scarf and 75% wouldn’t know anything about jewelry except for the ring they bought their wife. But they sense that I look “nice”.)
My executive GFs in banking still wear skirted suits or skirts and jackets. It’s about the only sector where this ‘corporate drag’ is still expected.
Mella, I suggest a tailor to get pants that really fit. Once you find him or her, you just have to reorder as needed. Of course, the tailor has good fabric, not synthetics.
My work formula is usually a smart-casual skirt, good tee (fitted, proper size, good neckline and colour), and either a smart-casual blazer or one of my handknit cardis. Low shoes, because I don’t have very good balance and heels aren’t such a good idea.
I am the only woman in my department who is a salaried member of the programme staff–other women at programme level are volunteers, and the admins are women. I try to dress with enough authority not to be mistaken as an admin, but still look like a woman. Of course, one easy way to do that would be to wear jeans to my office more, as the admins NEVER do 🙂
Wende and Wendy – I like the formulas you suggest, as well!
Stephanie – off the top of my head, that’s tricky. mainly because where you are is warm and therefore lined trousers wouldn’t always be the best idea. (Lined linen, I guess.) I’ll try to post some pictures later in the week. I would love to be able to do custom trousers, but I’m not certain that’s in my foreseeable future. Do you have skills? For ladies, I think trousers are genuinely tricky to fit, because of our figure variations. More later. 🙂